JEWELRY LOVE AFFAIR | Ana de Costa Fine Jewellery

Description

I discovered her amazing creations due to a lovely pair of emerald earrings she created a few years ago. I later found out that the earrings resulted from the collaboration with the mining company Gemfields and represent her biggest and most valuable one off piece to date. Her collections are very much inspired by spirituality and they seem to have been created specially for body and soul. Her bespoke work is truly amazing and sophisticated and it even includes pieces made in collaboration with a Mathematics professor at Cambridge University.

Dear jewellery lovers, I invite you to take a glimpse into Ana de Costa fine jewellery universe in the interview below.

What does jewellery mean to you?

Jewellery is a huge part of my life and has been for more than half of my life now. It makes me happy, keeps me inspired and more importantly, defines who I am through the style of jewellery I design, create and wear.

It is known that you get inspired by spirituality and alchemy in your work. Have you always been attracted to the mystical world or have you discovered it along the creative process?

I have also been interested in fantasy books and films as a child and I guess the spiritual concepts as themes in my jewellery developed from this. I think it has also come from my lifestyle, character and interests such as yoga and travelling.

Which is the jewel you are most proud of?

I think it would have to be some bespoke sundials which I made for Sheikha Mozah from the Qatari royal family. They were a real feat of engineering and took more than 6 months to prototype because they were so complicated and had to tell the time accurately. They also had the 3 prayer times of Islam plotted in the markings. I worked with a professor of mathematics from Cambridge University to calculate the longitudes and latitudes which were to tell the time – they were set to Doha time. I loved making them as they were a perfect blend of jewellery and objet d’art but also challenged me and my creative ability. I also had a bespoke leather box made to house them.

How long does it take to create a collection? From zero point (defining the creative concept) to having the collection in its final form.

It’s a really in depth process for me and sometimes it takes 18 months or more, as I like to become an expert in the topic I am referencing. I want the collections to be accurate and honest. I often visit a famous esoteric book shop called Watkins in London to gain inspiration or help with my research. I also often have to have stones cut to spec for my designs and so this bespoke nature of my pieces also takes time. I do all of this here in the heart of London.

How would you describe the woman wearing Ana de Costa fine jewellery?

I think she is confident and creative in her own right. She understands fine jewellery and really appreciates it and is a collector. My clients aren’t really fans of big luxury brands as they understand that real luxury is not heavily branded: it’s bespoke and often niche.

Which is the jewel in your private collection that you love the most?

I really love my new 18ct yellow gold and tsavorite studs as they are so cool but with a real design twist and are highly unique. They are also beautifully crafted and so for me this is the winning formula!

What is your favourite gem? And colour?

That’s a really tricky question as I love so many! I guess I would say natural blue sapphires as I am currently working on a large ring with a 5ct natural sapphire in the centre. It’s a stunning rich royal blue.

What’s next for Ana de Costa?

I have some key pieces I would like to make this year as new additions to the collections, but my main focus will be on my bespoke commissions and private clients as I offer such as great bespoke service. This can range from engagement rings, wedding bands, through to objet d’art as desk top ornaments. I love working directly with clients to create special pieces which will be heirlooms within their family and passed through generations – it’s great to be part of history.

Jewellery items:

1. Designing the Cusp collection, made in 18ct yellow gold, jade and tsavorites

2. Lotus jewellery items, from the Spiritual Henna collection. Handcrafted in London from platinum and 18ct rose and yellow golds and set with natural cognac diamonds, white diamonds and tsavorites

3. Bespoke platinum fully functional sundial pendant, pave set with 1.30ct of natural emeralds

4. Perle Noire collection, made from 18ct yellow gold, Tahitian pearls and tsavorites

5. 18ct yellow gold and black gold studs. Set with 2.40ct tsavorites

6. 18ct yellow gold and onyx pendant. Set with 0.50ct tsavorites and 0.20ct white diamonds